Dharavi - Kumbharwada

A story of the biggest slum area of Asia infused with many small industries, pottery workers, different communities, small houses, hardships of life yet with bright and happy faces and hearts full of love and warmth.

Purpose of visiting Dharavi: Dharavi, as we know it today, is the world’s largest slum area in Mumbai, Maharashtra. It is one of the most densely populated areas in the world, as predicted by many news reports and covered in cinemas. When I was in Mumbai I decided to visit Dharavi to experience the life of the people residing in such a congested place and the inconveniences faced by them. It is notable that the geographical location of Dharavi is quite strategic, ending up in a more central location, prompting property speculation and cultural, touristic and academic interest in the neighborhood.

History of Kumbharwada: Kumbharwada is a nearly a hundred years old settlement that was primarily established by the immigrants from Saurashtra(now Gujarat), who were potters from the profession. The place is also inhabited by Kutchi Gujarati. This place is the best example of communal harmony among Hindus and Muslims living together involved in their generation-old profession of pottery making. Presently, there are around ten thousand families who earn their livelihood by making artifacts out of clay and selling them in the markets.

The people of Kumbharwada perfectly exemplify the Make in India movement since they make their livelihood out of their skill and do not depend upon any employer for employment.

These skilled hands make thousands of clay lamps, earthen pots, saucers, bowls, lanterns, flower vases and so much more. With festivals like Diwali and Navratri around the corner, the demand for their goods reaches up to 2000-2500 items a day.

After reaching Kumbharwada, I started walking on the crowded streets, one after another and I came over through a few junctions where a distinct division of labor could be seen among the workers. Some of them were working over transferring clay to different locations, while some were involved in melting and mixing clay for production.

During this visit, I met a Gujarati-speaking person and came to know that this area is resided by Gujaratis mostly from Saurashtra. Which made me quite comfortable as I too belong to Gujarati origin. While busy with my photography I came across a person named Mr. Vilji Devji Singadiya, to whom I interrogated about the area and started a conversation. When he came to know I am from Rajkot, he said “ચા પીસો?” Of Course, my answer was yes as I believe in the fact that “Never say no to tea”.

Mr. Vilji Devji Singadiya

After that, we went to their workshop area which was above the clay fire area. He explained each process of his work, apart from the profession he also gave much information about his personal life, his family history and even discussed various issues they are facing. He was also doing his work while talking, he was making only Rabri(Indian Sweet) pot. They offered me lunch and explained everything about the area. I almost stayed for 2 hours with him and he introduced every member of his family. The whole family works together, his mother, wife, brother and sometimes kids also. But the next generation is not much interested in this business so many of them were moving towards new occupations mostly jobs in the Navy.

The workshop was full of small pots. He made around 800 to 1000 pots in a day. And He earns around Rs.1 for each pot and many of the pots also do not get fired properly so they get damaged. They had to face many hardships but still, their faces had smiles of satisfaction and joy which inspired me to do more in life. Their profession needs both hard work and skill and even had very poor working conditions with fire areas inside their house making it a bid dangerous.

After leaving their house, I moved further to another area of Kumbharwada.

In Dharavi, there are many small streets where only one person can walk at a time. Houses are closed to each other and in small spaces, they have everything in a home which is necessary for life. Vibrant colors of houses, electric lines touch to head in some areas. Water storage outside of every house, kids playing on streets while few vendors walk, and sales of few things. In a few houses, people sell grocery items.

While roaming there is one marriage happening there. People have a very good bonding with each other in the area.

Few large junction areas were inbuilt by an old-style fire pot baking. In fluxing fire smoke in that area and people are forced to live in this pollution and hazardous condition. It was unbearable for me as well to walk along with the smoke.

Inhabiting smoke fill areas generated from fire kilns is another challenge faced by people in that area. Prolonged exposure to smoke leads to many lung deformities, smoke was so intense that, while I was there only for a short period of time I too was forced to cover my mouth and nose. Making the environment hazardous for living.

After that, I met Jayanti Bhai Gada, who is a core member of the society committee of Dharavi area. When I was doing photography he asked me hardly “Yaha par kiski photo le rahe ho? Corona ke baad sab bandh hai, aabhi koi tourist yaha par nahi aate”. To which I replied  “Main sirf yaha ke logo ki photo le raha hu, ghoomne ke liye aaya hu Rajkot se”(I am here to explore this place and capture the picture of the area, I further mentioned that I am from Rajkot.)

And to my surprise again Gujarati connection worked. T, we conversed around for half an hour and he also offered me lunch, snacks over which we discussed that area and his life as well.

What a jolly person he is. I felt really good after conversing with a jovial and loving person like him.

Conclusion: Finally I visited the most popular place in Mumbai, At the end, it was a very good experience to explore Dharavi, for documenting some good pictures and their stories.

Edited By: Mariya Moomin

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